HEATING
This is universal with nearly all reptiles in captivity in the UK. Our climate does support many species of native reptiles from adders to slow worms, but the species commonly kept as pets are normally from much warmer climates and so additional heating is required. But it isn’t a simple matter of keeping the vivarium by a radiator!

All reptiles are cold blooded and so they can not control their body temperature independent to their environment like we do. The only way they can have some control over their body temperature is to go from warm areas to cool areas and vice versa. So we need to provide a temperature gradient. This is done by heating only one side of the vivarium to make a hot spot and leaving the other side relatively cool. The temperatures necessary on the hot spot and the cool end will vary from species to species so this needs to be researched.

METHODS OF HEATING
There are several methods that can be used for making this temperature gradient in the vivarium. By far the most well loved for beginner species is a basic heat mat. A heat mat is a thin electrical device that you can place under the vivarium or in some cases it may be suitable on the side of the vivarium (be sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions). A heat mat would normally cover around a third of the floor space on one side of the vivarium. Heat mats are one of the lowest powered heating methods for reptiles and so are only suitable for species from more temperate regions like corn snakes.

The temperature of the heat mat can be controlled using an inexpensive piece of equipment called a mat stat (a type of thermostat suitable for heat mats). There are several brands of thermostat that are designed specifically for reptile heating equipment. A thermostat is also an vital piece of safety equipment that prevents excessive heat build up on the hot side.

Another method of heating is with a spot bulb fitted to the ceiling of the vivarium that is controlled by a Dimming Thermostat. Dimming thermostats monitor the temperatures in the vivarium and reduce or increase the power being supplied to the bulb so as to regulate the temperature in the vivarium. This method can be far more powerful than a heat mat and can supply higher temperatures. Also, it can be used to make a basking spot which a heat mat can not do. In the wild, many reptiles will bask in the sun to warm themselves up and so this method of heating encourages natural behavior for many day active lizards like Bearded Dragons. A red spot bulb can also be used at night for most reptiles as most can not see the colour red.

Due to the very high surface temperatures of spot bulbs, a guard around the bulb is absolutely essential to prevent your reptile from getting burnt.

Another alternative is a Ceramic Bulb that emits only infra red and no visible light. This is ideal if you are keeping the vivarium in your bedroom so the light doesn’t disturb you. It is also better suited for reptiles that require exceptionally high temperatures as Ceramic Bulbs come in power ratings up to 250w or even higher in some cases.

Ceramic bulbs can be controlled with a dimming thermostat, though a cheaper alternative is a Pulse Proportional Thermostat which is constantly turning the bulb on and off to maintain the required temperature. If a Pulse Proportional Thermostat were to be used with a spot bulb it would burn out the filament very quickly and you will be constantly replacing the bulb. Ceramic Bulbs on the other hand don’t have this problem.

Again, the surface of the bulb can get exceptionally hot and so a guard around the bulb is essential!

Please fully research the requirements of the reptile you are interested in before deciding which heating method is best suited for you.

LIGHTING
Many reptiles need specialist lighting. This is usually provided using fluorescent strip bulbs designed specifically for reptiles that emit a form of ultraviolet light called UVB, the most well loved brand in the UK being Exo Terra’s Repti Glos though there are many other brands available varying in price. Pretty much any day active lizard will require this form of lighting. It is very vital because day active reptiles synthesize a vitamin called D3 using UVB light. Vitamin D3 is an essential vitamin that allows reptiles to metabolize the calcium in their food. Without it, they can not metabolize the calcium regardless how much is in their diet and so they will suffer from a crippling condition known as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which can result in severe skeletal deformities and in worse case scenarios, death.

Normal fluorescent lights do not emit UVB and nor do common ultraviolet lights like “black lights.” Always use a light that is designed to be used for reptiles. These bulbs also emit visible light, but they will only emit UVB for a period of around 6 months so regardless of whether the bulb is still emitting visible light after this time it will need replacing.

For maximum effect, the bulb should ideally be no more than six to ten inches away from the reptile, though the range is effectively doubled if you use a reflector. Try to position the bulb and arrange the vivarium so that your reptile will spend a large part of the day within range of the bulb ie when basking.

There are several types of UVB emitting fluorescent bulb. Repti Glos come in three types: 2%, 5%, and 10%. The percentage refers to how much of the light’s spectrum is in the UVB range. 5% and 10% are the most well loved though are suited for different types of reptiles. 5% bulbs are usually used with Rainforest and European species since the intensity of the sunlight in these areas is relatively low. 10% bulbs are usually used for desert species that spend a large part of their lives in direct sunlight.

Nocturnal reptiles like Leopard Geckos do not require any specialist lighting as they rarely venture out in daylight.

Please fully research the requirements of the reptile you are interested in before deciding which lighting system is best suited for you.

HUMIDITY
Humidity in the vivarium needs to be maintained to match the reptile’s natural environment. Without the appropriate humidity your reptile will suffer from respiratory problems, and if the humidity is too low, may have problems shedding their skin. Average indoor humidity in the UK is around 30-50% so if your reptile requires humidity levels higher than this the tank will need to be sprayed with a mister to raise the humidity. An inexpensive device called a Hygrometer can be used to monitor the humidity levels in the vivarium.

Vivariums with higher humidity levels are more prone to mites and mold so be sure to remove any feces and dead food immediately.

SUBSTRATE
There are several factors in choosing the right substrate. The main factor is the humidity. If your reptile requires a high humidity then you want to use a substrate that can hold moisture well. A few examples are Orchid Bark, Sphagnum Moss, Coconut Bedding and Komodo’s Tropical Terrain.

There are a few other options for reptiles that do not require high levels of humidity, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. Beech chips are one of the most well loved though others include Bio Grass, Repti Maize, and Reptile Carpet.

The main problem with Beech chips (and indeed any substrate that is in particle form) is that there is a risk your reptile could accidentally swallow it while eating which can block the digestive system or cause serious internal hurt. A safer alternative is Bio Grass which is basically compressed grass pellets. These pellets break down when wet and so can be easily passed through if swallowed. This is also right to a lesser extent with Repti Maize which is made out of kiln dried corn. When swallowed Repti Maize goes mushy around the outside and so is not so hard to pass through and less likely to cause internal hurt like with beech chips. The main problem with using these kind of substrates is that they will disintegrate if they get wet which can be a nuisance around their water bowl. Of course all ingestion problems can be avoided if you use a substrate that isn’t in particle form like Reptile Carpet which is a coarse felt like material you can use to line the bottom of the vivarium. This will eliminate the ingestion problem, though it will prevent lizards who like to dig into the substrate from doing so.

In some cases it may be more appropriate to feed your reptile outside of the vivarium.

Again, please fully research the reptile you are interested in to help you choose which substrate is most suitable.

REPTILES SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS
Due to the specialist requirements of reptiles, not all species are suitable for beginners. A few that we would recommend for someone starting out in reptile keeping are Leopard Geckos, Crested Geckos, Bearded Dragons, Corn Snakes, Kingsnakes and Hermann’s Tortoises. These species grow to a moderate size, are very hardy and usually have very excellent temperaments making them ideal beginner species.

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You will need to be very alert and train your eyes to spot even the slightest movement. Wear clothes of dull, drab colours and go very slowly, stopping often to listen out for movement in the grass or bushes. In the beginning, you will have many fake hopes, until you learn to differentiate between the sounds of the various animals that live or hunt in the grass.Snakes are hard to locate, because most of the adventurous snakes get killed by frightened (and often ignorant) humans, but a excellent tip is to look for relatively damp areas in arid regions and, conversely, dry spots in damp areas. Look for where their prey might congregate. For instance, near water for toads and frogs. Watch for frightened lizards or birds fleeing for their lives. And listen out for geckos warning each other of the presence of a predatory snake.

If you need to go anything, at least don’t wreck it and furthermore, make sure you place it back as you found it. Two useful tools while out looking for snakes and other reptiles are binoculars (for tree snakes) and a snake-hook, which should also be used for moving bits of debris so that you don’t risk getting bitten by a snake or stung by a scorpion. A camera, a torch and a notebook and pen are more or less essential, depending on how seriously you take your interest in herpetology.

You might also take a rule or tape to measure your specimens and a few plastic bags and boxes to hold them while you are doing so. But, do not harm anything and do not take anything away with you either! Aside from it not being right to wander into their territory and cause mayhem, it is often contrary to the law too. Be very wary of picking up any snake that you cannot 100% positively identify as non-poisonous. You could be a long way from anywhere and will probably not have any anti-venom with you. Since many snakes can kill within 30 minutes, you would probably die.

To summarize, go looking for snakes by all means. But, take it simple and slowly and wear inconspicuous clothing. Furthermore, wear strong, climbing boots to give you some protection where you are most vulnerable and do not disturb anything you don’t have to. Take a snake-hook to go things if you need to; a tape, torch, camera, notebook and pen to record your experience and/or findings and a couple of clear plastic receptacles just in case you feel that you have to pick something up.

I hope you really delight in your search for snakes and other reptiles, but always remember that snakes are not friendly and they are certainly not pets, so be wary of snake bites especially if your search is not taking place in the grounds of a hospital!

In order to house your reptile properly it is essential to know and be able to provide the housing conditions in which it requires to sustain a excellent quality life. Housing Conditions The giant green iguana is a wonderful pet to own even so there are some considerations to allow before deciding if you can properly house one or not. It is no surprise that the giant green iguana gets it name because it tends to grow to quite large sizes and in fact can grow to weigh more than 20 pounds and can grow in length up to six feet long! It is also necessary to consider when deciding on a giant green iguana that the life span of these reptiles are generally anywhere from ten to fifteen years.

That is a very long commitment to take on when deciding on a giant reptilian for your house pet. It is one of the most serious problems with giant green iguanas because a lot of potential owners reckon that they are very cute when they are small but they grow to be very large and the owners choose they can’t house the iguana that it has grown to become. It is also jussive mood to know when deciding if a giant green iguana is the pet for you that it is a particularly excellent pet for children to be around for a variety of reasons.

The first and probably most vital that most potential owners overlook is that iguanas tend to carry salmonella on their skin. People that handle these creatures should be diligent in deal washing to avoid being sickened by the salmonella and children are not very disciplined in doing these things and as a result tend to fall ill to salmonella poisoning. The giant green iguana holds yet another reason that children are not a excellent owner of these reptiles is because children have a way of scaring the iguanas by jumpy acts and not speaking softly as they tend to get excited easily as do the giant green iguanas and that won’t make for a excellent situation and the iguana will get very aggressive and mean with the children.

Only 6 Florida snakes are venomous and they happily coexist with their nontoxic cousins. They even go into towns and cities too. The best way to stay out of distress with snakes is to learn their morphology and therefore be able to identify the various Florida snakes. The wisest approach to adopt in relation to all snakes is avoidance.The Coral snakes and pit vipers are by far the most perilous of the Florida snakes. They’re identifiable by quite a range of common characteristics. Pit vipers which include the Rattlesnake, the Cottonmouth and the Copperhead all have in common: vertical eye pupils, a v-shaped head and facial pit sensors: one between the eyes and nostrils and the others along each side of the head.

The poison of this character of Florida snakes is haemotoxic, which means that their venom attacks the red blood cells, destructing the walls of the blood vessels and causing uncontrolled bleeding. Coral snakes but, use neurotoxic venom, with the toxins in the poison acting on the body’s nerves causing paralysis.

Most of the snake bites described each year in the United States are caused by Florida snakes or by rattlesnakes to be more precise. As their venom spreads very quickly throughout the body, the victim will die within less than half an hour without immediate anti-venom.

A major exception in this group of Florida snakes is the copperhead, the venom of which very rarely, if ever, requires anti-venom. Their poison is the least potent and thus they are considered the least perilous of the poisonous Florida snakes.

It is precisely because of the danger that they present that poisonous snakes get the most attention, although the most usual of Florida snakes is the Black Racer, which is a non-poisonous species that depends upon its sharp fangs to capture its prey.

Although the usual tendency of home owners is to remove snakes from their properties, specialists stress the fact that, without them, rodents would breed out of control giving us even more cause for alarm.

Therefore, unless there are any special causes for worrying, like snakes breeding in fantastic numbers in your garden or shed, there is no real reason why you should upset the lives of these usually shy, useful animals.